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At the age of twenty-two, Matija Mazuranic crossed the River Sava into Ottoman Bosnia. It was 1839, the dawn of the Ottoman reform period known as the Tanzimat. In this fascinating and sympathetic eyewitness account, Mazuranic records his encounters with Ottoman Bosnian society at every level - from peasants in the field mistaking him for a demon to townspeople in taverns and shops, and an audience at the pasha's court. This unique record provides insight into the local customs, modes of speech and dress, politics and social and economic conditions of Ottoman Bosnia.