Kook: What Surfing Taught Me about Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave (BOK)

Deputy Director Fiscal Affairs Department Peter He

189,00 18900
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Author of the "New York Times" bestselling novel "The Dog Stars"Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of "The Whale Warriors "recounts his remarkable journey of discovery--of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean's beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave-- that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder--in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, "Kook" is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.


Språk Engelsk Engelsk Innbinding Heftet
Utgitt 2010 Forfatter Deputy Director Fiscal Affairs Department Peter He
ISBN 9780743294201
Antall sider 304 Dimensjoner 14,3cm x 21,3cm x 2,1cm
Vekt 290 gram Emner og form Biography: sport